 I thought it would be fun to create a cube from clay slabs. I've made several things with a tulip theme, and I want to incorporate that theme again. Therefore, I cut a tulip motif into the clay slabs. For projects like this, it’s useful to first create a model from paper or cardboard. |
 I want to cut the tulip motif into each side, creating a very light cube. Since the paper from which I cut the tulip motif isn’t very thick, I cut it out for each side once. The paper absorbs moisture from the clay and becomes fragile. Technically, I could cut two slabs with one template, but I don't have time to cut extra templates between steps, so I make one for each side just to be safe. |
 To give the clay slabs stability and cut them to the correct size, I cut six squares from a sheet of ivory cardboard, each the size of the cube’s sides. I truly need six. |
 The sides of the cube are cut from a clay slab. There are articles explaining how to make clay slabs. Ensure all slabs are the same thickness. I chose fine grog clay because I wouldn’t be able to cut the detailed motif cleanly otherwise. |
 While working, if I haven’t sealed the clay pack because I’m still using it, I always cover it with a damp cloth. This keeps the top layer of clay nice and pliable. The cloth doesn’t need to be soaking wet, just damp. |
 Once I’ve rolled out a nice clay slab, I place as many cardboard templates on it as possible. In this case, two. The templates must fit completely on the slab. Cut the slabs along the edges of the cardboard with a sharp knife and carefully turn them over. They rest on the cardboard templates. |
 In total, I need six slabs. The cardboard remains under the clay slabs, making them easy to lift. Let the clay slabs dry until they are leather-hard. This is the stage where the clay hasn’t yet lightened in color from drying. |
 Now the motifs are cut from the clay slabs one by one. Place the motif neatly in the center of the clay slab and carefully cut along the edges of the motif with a sharp knife. Remove the pieces to be cut out carefully. Because I used fine grog clay, I can achieve nice sharp edges. |
 Cutting out the motif is a lot of work; you need to take your time. Ensure the clay isn’t too wet, as it will stick to your knife and create a mess. |
 All six sides are finished. The pattern is symmetrical, so you don’t need to worry about top and bottom when assembling. |
 To neatly join the sides together, they need to be cut at an angle, or "mitered." Do this with a sharp knife as well. The angle here is exactly 45 degrees. You can easily measure this by marking a thin line the thickness of the clay slab on the inside. Then, cut with your knife at an angle along the edge of the cardboard and through this line. |
 The mitered edges of the slabs need to be carefully scored and smeared with slip. Then, assemble the cube. First, create a corner with three slabs. Then, make another corner with two slabs. Finally, join these two corners together. It’s a meticulous task, but if the slabs are properly leather-hard, it should work. To support the structure, you can stuff some paper inside the cube. This will burn away during firing. |
 Once the piece is finished, it can be fired. I don’t want to glaze the cube. It’s made of black-firing clay, and I prefer to simply fire this piece. Glazed pieces often have a shiny finish, which I don’t want in this case.You can see that the cube has become much darker after firing. It can become even blacker if fired again at a higher temperature. |