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Working with mediums

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Oil paletteWhen working with oil paint, various additives are frequently used. The possible additions are described in the article "Oil Paint - Overview of Oil Paint Additives". There are several reasons to add products to oil paint.n.

  •  To improve the flow of the paint. This allows for smoother painting and better detailing.
  • To make the paint leaner. This is used when working in layers.
  • To make the paint fatter. This is used when working in layers.
  • To speed up the drying of the paint. This allows for faster work.
  • To slow down the drying of the paint. This creates a stable final layer.
  • To reduce brush strokes. This means making the paint so thin that it smooths out nicely as it dries. You won't be able to see individual brush strokes.
  • To accentuate brush strokes. You can also accentuate the brush strokes by adding specific mediums.
  • To create a beautiful thin glaze. This is used in the glazing technique.

Making your medium leaner or fatter is necessary for the principle of "Fat over lean". This is one of the most important principles when building up an oil painting. The idea is to make each subsequent paint layer slightly fatter than the underlying layer. You generally start with a lean layer, where you make the paint flow better by adding a solvent. The next layer should be slightly fatter, so you add less solvent and some oil. The layer after that should have even more oil added. Oil is the element that makes the paint flexible. By applying the fat over lean principle, you ensure that each subsequent layer is more flexible. If you were to do it the other way around, you risk cracks because you're applying a less flexible paint over a more flexible layer.

Along with this principle, you need to ensure that each subsequent layer dries slightly slower. Oil dries slower than solvent, so if you use the same oil every time, this will naturally work. It's also possible to use different types of oils with different drying times. Pay close attention to the order in which you use the oils.

The drying speed of oils from fast to slow is approximately:
  •  Drying linseed oil
  • Thickened linseed oil / boiled linseed oil
  • Bleached linseed oil / drying poppyseed oil
  • Cold-pressed linseed oil
  • Refined linseed oil / purified linseed oil
  • Stand oil / poppyseed oil

This overview includes only the most commonly used oils from the brands Talens and Winsor & Newton. Of course, there are more brands with their own specific oils. If you want to use these, make sure to get well-informed about the drying speed of the oils or check the manufacturer's website.

Generally, it's handy to use two palette cups when working with oil paint. In the first cup, you put some solvent for cleaning your brush, and in the other cup, you put the mixture you use as a painting medium. Adjust the latter mixture each time, making it slightly fatter and slightly slower drying for each subsequent layer. Some possibilities for painting mediums when working in layers are given here. Always start with number 1 and finish the final layer with the composition mentioned at the last number.


Some possibilities for painting in layers:

Option 1: traditional oil paint, 4 layers

  1. Sansodor or turpentine;
  2. 1 part linseed oil mixed with 1 part Sansodor or turpentine
  3. Linseed oil
  4. Stand oil or poppyseed oil (final layer)
suppliesOption 2: traditional oil paint, more layers

  1. Sansodor or turpentine
  2. 1 part linseed oil mixed with 1 part Sansodor or turpentine
  3. 2 parts linseed oil mixed with 1 part Sansodor or turpentine
  4. 3 parts linseed oil mixed with 1 part Sansodor or turpentine
  5. 4… etc
  6. Linseed oil
  7. Stand oil or poppyseed oil (final layer)

Between painting the layers of method 1 and 2, you must leave enough drying time, usually about a week or two.
AdditivesOption 3, by using Liquin, the layers can be painted faster on top of each other:

  1. Sansodor or turpentine
  2. 1 part Liquin mixed with 1 part Sansodor or turpentine
  3. 2 parts Liquin mixed with 1 part Sansodor or turpentine
  4. 3 parts Liquin mixed with 1 part Sansodor or turpentine
  5. Liquin
  6. Stand oil or poppyseed oil (final layer)

You can optionally combine the first 2 options with a bit of quick-drying medium, such as Courtrai siccatif. Then add a few small drops to your medium. Liquin should never be mixed with a siccatif. This could cause the paint layer to crack or wrinkle (scorch).
Watersoluble oilpaintOption 4, Artisan water-mixable oil paint.

  1. Artisan fast-drying medium, possibly with some water
  2. Artisan painting medium
  3. Artisan linseed oil
  4. Artisan stand oil or Artisan poppyseed oil (final layer)

The drying time between painting the layers of methods 3 and 4 is somewhat shorter, but still about a week.
Siccatief CourtraiThese are just a few possibilities. You can make your own additions and changes here, as long as you continue to apply the "fat over lean" principle. Also, pay attention to the drying time of the oils used. Be sparing with siccatif; it is very toxic.

Finally, working with special mediums to thicken the paint. These are generally used in only one layer. The fat over lean principle doesn't matter as much then. But remember, a thick layer of paint needs much more drying time.